BRAKES
Brake master cylinder reservoir. The first thing to go are the 2 seals where the reservoir go into the Master cylinder. It's a dealer only part costing £6.50 each but sorts leaks really easily. Remove the reservoir carefully and you shouldn't need to bleed the brakes afterwards.
A propshaft or transfer box handbrake is preferred to avoid wrecking your drum brakes. It also leaves you the option of rear disc brakes later. Although it will need more regular adjustment than other types.
Disc brake conversion.
This is a great one. often works out cheaper in the long run as you get fewer breakages and less binding as well as improved braking power. Basically you remove the standard rear brakes and fit an after market kit available from many places. Best to choose one that uses Suzuki calipers so you have the same brakes front and back, although you will have to fit a propshaft or transfer box handbrake which are crap. One option is to fit Rover 820 calipers that have the handbrake on them. Take the chance to fit braded hoses at teh same time and both rpotect the lines and sharpen response.
Carbs
Weber
I fitted a Weber conversion kit tot he 1300 which
bolted on easily. One problem is the engine cutting out at very steep angles and
or long steep climbs. It appears the float level can be too low and by
removing the top of the carb and bending the float stop tab down VERY CAREFULLY
by max 1 mm the level of fuel in the float bowl is increased. This will work on
steep climbs but is limited. On bumpy ground the float over fills and dumps fuel
into the engine causing flooding and is almost impossible to overcome. Fitting
an 13/4 inch SU carb sorts it apparently.
SU
Fitting an 13/4 inch SU carb is the easiest option
apart from getting a good condition original one. The advantage of the SU is
that, in theory at least, it can run at any angle - even upside down. This is a
more expensive route as you not only have to procure a carb and refurbish it but
then adapt the inlet manifold to suit. The best manifold is available from
Rhino Ray as an exchange. It's a fit
and forget job with all the angles sorted. Once fitted, the SU needs to be set
up in an old fashioned way and most folk head for Mini specialists (NOT BMW!)
who can do the job in 5 minutes flat.
I can't recommend this upgrade enough and the manifold will fit both the 1300cc and 1600cc engines with only a needle swap and re-tune needed.
Fuel Pump
The standard mechanical fuel pump leaks oil and brakes eventually. Many folk fit electric ones that have an auto shutoff based on pressure so you can dispense with the fuel return line. In standard form the pump shoves more fuel through the higher the revs which would inundate the carb unless it had a way of allowing the extra to be ejected. Rather than send the extra fuel cascading all over the engine and ground it gets sent back to the tank through the thinner fuel line. This means yet another potential breakage on the Trail. Having a pick-up fuel line only means that you can fit a variety of tanks made out of jerry cans, beer kegs etc and only have to cut one hole!
Clutches
It is vital with any new clutch to run it in. A combination of heat and pressure sets the friction plates into a solid ring of grippy stuff and no running in means a prematurely worn out clutch.
The clutch has been upgraded to a Calmini 50% centrifugal item called a single centreforce clutch, there is a dual centreforce version but is much more expensive and only really worth it for the big power conversions. I ran it in as best I could and it has not given me a moments hassle. Cash well spent in my opinion especially as after 2 years of serious abuse it was removed and checked and still had most of the friction material left. The mechanic friend who checked it grudgingly agreed that it had been money well spent as he had fitted 4 clutches in the same period (at £60 each plus vat plus fitting!)
Waterproofing the engine
This is less of an issue for the Sammy than for many other
vehicles, the exhaust gasket offers some protection to the spark plug caps and
the distributor is high up and the to the rear of the engine well away form the
water splashed about by the fan. The coil can be sited in many places and even
moved inside the cab but even this can be improved upon.
I use bathroom silicon sealer around the coil and the dizzy cap leads avoiding
the bottom where I spray proprietary ignition sealer. Make sure your engine is
warm and dry unless you want to seal the moisture in!
The next step is an adventurous one - replacement of the viscous coupling fan with an electric one. The advantages are primarily a lack of water sprayed around the engine bay when wading and an alleged increase in power (the original fan saps power) but the complexity and expense (as much as £150) of fitting an electric one with all the hassle of thermostats and possible overheating means that it may not be worth doing. I may do it but only if the bits turn up for pennies. Making sure you clean out the radiator is much more cost effective.